Stafford Expedition to the Alps 1988

This Report/Article/Letter etc. resurfaced from amongst the many documents in the joint MRS/MRA
archive that was commercially scanned to PDF on 2021. I was then converted to MS word by Stuart
Vyner
in May 2021

SFD/809/3/PEd
See Distribution.

RAF Stafford
88

ADMINISTRATION ORDER 1/88
RAF STAFFORD MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION TO THE PENNINE ALPS
(SWITZERLAND) PERIOD 30 JUL 88 TO 14 AUG 88

References:
A. RAF GAI 2059.
GENERAL
1. Aim of Expedition. To provide members of the RAF Stafford Mountain Rescue Team with an excellent opportunity to broaden their mountaineering experience and knowledge in a very testing and arduous mountainous region of the
W. European Alps.
2. On choosing the members of the expedition the leader and deputy leader were appointed on their proven leadership and instructional abilities, coupled with their previous experience whilst the remainder were chosen for their eagerness and,
willingness to expand on their present experience being established members of the Stafford Mountain Rescue Team. All expedition members are physically and mentally capable of undertaking an expedition to such an arduous and demanding
area of the Alps.
3. Base Camp. The expedition base camp will be at Zermatt village, which is situated a few miles north of the Italian/Swiss border near the foot of the Matterhorn’s NE Ridge. The village is the ideal location for a base camp and the expedition will be housed under canvas for the duration with the exception of the nights spent in the
mountain refuge huts.
4. Full details of expedition members, transport, itinerary etc are attached at Annex A to this Admin Order.

Authentication:

(signed) S Frater
S FRATER
Wg Car
OC Admin Wg




Annexes:
A. RAF GAI 2059 (Annex A). B. Diplomatic Clearance.
Appendices to Annex A:

1. Proposed Itinerary of Expedition
2. Maps of Expeditions Area of Activity
3. Nominal Roll
4. Equipment
5. Expenditure

6. Leaders/Deputy Leaders’ Experience
7. Rations/Transport
8. RAFSC/571135/PEd dated 19 Nov 87
9. RAPSC/571135/PEd dated 21 Nov 85

H MARSH
Flt Lt
P Ed 0

Distribution:
External:
Action:
HQ RAFSC (Attn: Ed 0(2))
Internal:
Action:
OC MT Sqn
OC Accts Flt
P Ed 0/Exped Trg Off
Expedition Members (11)
Information:
Stn Car
OC Admin Wg
OC Support We
OC Supply We
OC TSW
OC GD Flt
OC PSF
OC MR


ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED JAN 88

RAF GAI 2059


ANNEX A
APPLICATION FOR THE APPROVAL OF EXPEDITION TRAINING


Command Serial No.

The application is submitted by officers/airmen/airwomen of the following command station(s):
Command: Support.
Station: RAF Stafford.
Proposed Dates of Expedition: 30 Jul – 74 Aug 88.
Description of the Expedition or Activity: High altitude mountaineering experience for members of the RAF Stafford Mountain Rescue Team including crevasse rescue techniques, glacier travel and culminating in ascents of the Dufourspitze (4609m) and the Matterhorn (4476m).

A detailed itinerary is attached at Appendix 1 to this Annex.
a. Location: Zermatt, Switzerland.
b. Proposed Route: RAF Stafford – Dover ~ Calais – Montreux ~ Zermatt, inbound reverse of outbound.
c. Map Reference: See Appendix 2 to this Annex.
Number of Officers/Airmen/Airwomen taking part: 0/10/0 (See Appendix 3 to this Annex).
Overall Period Away from Normal Duties: 16 Days.
Summary of Equipment to be used and Source: Mountain Rescue Team (RAF Stafford) ; RAF Stafford Expedition Store, Personal Equipment (See Appendix 4 to this Annex).
Approximate Cost of Expedition: £1519.00 (not including MT and Food Costings). A detailed breakdown of expenditure is attached at Appendix 5 to this Annex. A grant of £500 is sought towards the cost stated above.
Expedition Leader: Cpl K Williams (S8139293) RAF Stafford. Details of Experience of Leader: See Appendix 6.
Remarks of Officer controlling Expedition:

Certificate by CO:
I certify that the personnel referred to in the nominal roll can be released for the period specified without detriment to their normal duties.

(signed) N T Carter
N T CARTER
Gp Capt.
2 Nov 88 OC


Remarks by Command P Ed 0:

Referred to Command PRO? Yes/No
NB. A map of the area proposed for the expedition is attached at Appendix 2 to this Annex


ANNEX B TO
SFD/809/3/PED
JAN 88

RAF GAI 2059

ANNEX B
DIPLOMATIC CLEARANCE
APPLICATION FOR THE APPROVAL OF EXPEDITION TRAINING

From: RAF Stafford Command: Support
To: HM Air Attaché
British Embassy
Thunstrasse 50
3005 Berne
Switzerland

  1. I am directed to submit the following application for the approval of an expedition under the terms of RAF GAI 2059:

a. Command: Support

b. Expedition Leader:

Full Postal Address: RAF Stafford, Beaconside, Stafford ST18 0AQ.

Rank: Cpl
Name: Kevin Williams
Station: RAF Stafford

c. Nominal roll of officers and airmen taking part in the expedition is attached as Appendix 3 to Annex A of this Admin Order.

2. Full Description of the Expedition: High altitude mountaineering experience for members of the RAF Stafford Mountain Rescue Team including crevasse rescue, glacier travel and ascents of the Dufourspitze and Matterhorn.

3. Location: Zermatt, Switzerland. (See map at Appendix 2 to Annex A to this Admin Order).

4. Proposed Route: RAF Stafford – Dover ~ Calais – Montreux – Zermatt (inbound reverse of outbound).

5. Date of Departure from UK/Command: 30 Jul 88.

6. Estimate Date of Arrival on Route: 1 Aug 88, A map of the area in which the expedition is to take place is attached at Appendix 2 to Annex A. The routes and areas of exploration are marked.

7. The expedition is approved by the AOC in C/C in C.

Date ………………………………
Reference: ………………………..

Signature: ………………………………….
Name……………………………………..
Rank……………………………………
Appt…………………………………..
for Air Officer Commanding in Chief
……………………………Command


APPENDIX1 TO
ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED JAN 88

Dates
30 Jul 88
31 Jul 88
1 Aug 88
2 Aug 88
3 Aug 88
4 Aug 88
5 Aug 88
6 Aug 88
7 Aug 88
8 Aug 88
9 Aug 88
10 Aug 88
11 Aug 88
12 Aug 88
15 Aug 88
14 Aug 88

Dates Itinerary
Move from RAF Stafford to Calais
Move from Calais to Montreux
Move from Montreux to Zermatt
Set up Base Camp in Zermatt
Alpine Mountaineering techniques on Gorner Glacier
Crevasse rescue techniques on Gorner Glacier
Ascend Gorner Glacier to Monte Roza Hut
Ascend the Dufourspitze and return to Monte Roza Hut
Return to Zermatt via Gorner Glacier
Ascend to Hornli Hut on Matterhorn
Ascend Matterhorn by Hornli Ridge
Ascend Matterhorn by Hornli Ridge/Descend to Zermatt
Rest period in Zermatt
Move from Zermatt to Montreux
Move from Montreux to Calais
Move from Calais to RAF Stafford

Note: Actual dates and itinerary for mountaineering activities will of course be adjusted in-situ according to weather, abilities of individual members etc. All expedition members will receive progressive training in months leading up to
expedition with regular weekly lectures on alpine mountaineering related subjects being given by the Expedition Leader and Deputy Leader.

A-1-1


APPENDIX 2 TO
ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED JAN 88


APPENDIX 3 TO
ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED JAN 88

EXPEDITION PERSONNEL NOMINAL ROLL

All personnel based at RAF Stafford.

Service NoRankNameExpedition Role
58139293CplKevin WilliamsExpedition Leader
K8192089CplMichael Brettell—-Equipment Member
P8201639CplGraham CletheroDeputy Expedition Leader
P8227995SACIan EllisrMaps & Guides Member
E8198590SAC Peter Higgins Deputy Treasurer
R8270960 SAC Richard Turvey Rations Member
T8248880SAC Richard Cooper Rations Member
C8246942SACDavid BriscoPhotographer
18228185SACPhilip ShawEquipment Member

A-3-1


APPENDIX 4 TO
ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED JAN 88

EXPEDITION EQUIPMENT

  1. Group Equipment

    Tentage
    First Aid Equipment
    Stoves and Fuel
    Cooking Utensils
    Ropes (6 x 11 mm Kernmantle, 4 x 9mm Kernmantle)
    Lightweight Canteen Sets
  1. Misc. Equipment

    Cleaning Materials————–Spare Pair Crampons
    Torch Batteries——————-Spare Pair Gloves
    Freeze-dried Foods——_——-Spare Pair Snow Goggles
    Maps
    Guides
    Matches
    Candles

————–3. Personal Climbing Equipment and Clothing

Boots
Socks
Salopette Climbing Trousers
Thermal Underwear
Polar Wear
Duvet Jacket
Gortex Jacket
Gortex Trousers
Compass
Altimeter
Sunglasses
Ice Hammer
First Aid Kit
Gaiters
Inner/Outer Gloves
Rucksack
Karrimat

Snow Goggles
Climbing Helmet
Bivouac Sleeping Bag
Super Blue Slings (x 3)
Crampons
Sticht Plate
Climbing Harness
Karabiners (x 6)
‘Chocks’
Rock Pitons (x 2)
Ice Screws (x 2)
Ice Hammer
Ice Axe
Prussick Slings
Extension Slings (x 2)
‘Friends’


APPENDIX 5 TO
ANNEX A TO
SFD/809/3/PED
DATED MAR 88


EXPEDITION EXPENDITURE

————-1. Proposed expenditure

Item
BMC Membership
Reciprocal Rights (1)
Campsite Fees
Maps and Guides
Cable Car Fees
Mountain Hut Expenses
Train Fares (2)
Incidentals
Hot Water (3)

Total

£
55.00
154.00
300.00
50.00
200.00
400.00
260.00
I50.00
50.00

1519.00

————-2. Proposed Source of Income


Personal Contributions
Command Grant

1019.00
500.00

Total

1519.00

Notes
(1) Reduce hut fees by up to 40% (BMC membership necessary for this facility).
(2) No public access to Zermatt, shuttle service from Tasch.
(3) Mountain Huts charge very high prices for boiling water.
(4) It is proposed that CILOR will cover food requirements (at current rates and rules,
total to be drawn is £407.56) members of expedition will be housed under canvass for
duration of expedition with exception of time spent in mountain huts.

  1. Service transport is requested in the form of 2 freight rover Sherpas and 1
    passenger variant (see app 8 to annex A)

A-5-1


APPENDIX 6 TO 
ANNEX A TO 
SFD/809/3/PED 
DATED JAN 88 

EXPEDITION LEADERS & DEPUTY LEADERS EXPERIENCE 
Expedition Leader – Cpl K Williams (S8139293) 
Courses Attended (all passed) 
———-Basic Rock Climbing (JSMIC Wales (1978)) 
———-Mountaineering (BOBC Norway (1980)) 
———-Alpine Snow and Ice Climbing (BOBC Norway (1982)) 
———-RAF Mountain Rescue Service Winter Course (Scotland (1986)) 
———-RAF Mountain Rescue Service First Aid Course (RAF Stafford (1986) 
———-RAF Mountain Rescue Service ‘Advanced Rescue’ Techniques Course (RAF Valley (1986) 

General. 8 years mountaineering experience gained in the Middle and Near East, Scandinavia and the European Alps. Leader of winning Cyprus Mountain Walkabout Team in 1983, leader of many unit expeditions in UK and overseas giving instruction on mountaineering techniques and related subjects. RAF Mountain Rescue Service rock climbing instructor (leading Very Severe (Tech Grade 4e)) and Snow & Ice climbing instructor (leading grade 111/IV). RAF Mountain Rescue deputy Team Leader status. Regular (weekend duty) and extensive experience of hillwalking and climbing throughout the UK with the RAF Mountain Rescue Team based at RAF Stafford. Climbing instructor on several MRS courses and experience of many rescue incidents as rescuer and coordinator. Nominated as Team Leader of RAF Stafford MRT on several weekend exercises in North Wales and the Lake District. Alpine climber to Grade AD+, 

Deputy  Expedition Leader  GS Clethero (P8201639) 
Courses Attended (all passed) 
———-Basic Rock Climbing (JSMTC Scotland) 
———-Snow & Ice Climbing (BOBC Norway) 
———-Cross-Country Skiing (BOBC Norway) 
———-RAF MRS Winter Course (Scotland) 
———-RAF MRS Summer Course (Llanwrst, Wales) 
———-RAF MRS First Aid Course (RAF Stafford) 
———-RAF MRS Advanced Rescue Techniques Course (RAF Leuchars) 
General. 7 years mountaineering experience gained mainly in UK with visits to Norway, high altitude experience in Austria (1985). A member of the RAF Mountain Rescue Service for 6 years, presently serving as the permanent driver on the RAF Stafford team and assuming permanent Deputy Team Leader role wef May 88. Instructor on several MRS climbing courses, leading Very Severe/Hard Very Severe (Tech Grade 5a) on rock-climbing and grade III/IV on snow and ice climbing. MRS Deputy Team Leader status. Regular and extensive experience of hillwalking and climbing throughout UK with Mountain Rescue Team, Experience of numerous rescue incidents. 
Note. In addition to the above information both leaders are fully conversant with helicopter operations and MT regulations through Mountain Rescue commitment. 
See also Appendix 9 to annex A which gives a description of the role of the RAF MRS Party Leader (a status below that of Deputy Team Leader). 

A-6-1 


APPENDIX 7 TO 
ANNEX A TO 
SFD/809/3/PED 
DATED JAN 88 

RATIONS & TRANSPORT FOR EXPEDITION 

1.  Rations. Food will be provided by CILOR. The amount current at the time of drawing will be collected by the Expedition Treasurer and converted into the relevant currency before the expedition departure date. 
2. OC PSF is to bring onto ration strength all living out personnel for the duration of the expedition (16 days). 
3. Transport. (See also Appendix 8 to Annex A). Transport will be provided by service sources in the form of 2 Sherpa Freight Rovers and 1 Sherpa passenger variant. The drivers of the vehicles being: 
Cpl K Williams (PAX Variant)   Fg Off M Fretz (Freight Rover) 
Cpl M Brettell                            SAC P Higgins 
SAC G Clethero (Freight Rover) 
SAC R Cooper 
4. OC MT Sqn is to ensure that all drivers have valid Form 600s with relevant annotations and all other documentation/training required for continental driving. 
OC MT Sqn is to arrange ferry bookings (Dover – Calais 30 Jul 88, Calais – Dover 14 Aug 88) for 3 vehicles and 11 passengers (including meal vouchers for both journeys) and arrange cabins for 6 drivers if overnight passage necessary. Fuel costs are to be met by the wit ERB in accordance with RAFSC/571135/P Ed dated 19 Nov 87 (copy at Appendix 8 to Annex A). 

A-7-1 



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