Exercise Condor Conquest – 1991


This Post Expedition Report, (PXR) was given to the RAF MRA by the expedition leader, Terry Moore, and was then scanned and digitized by Brian Canfer 25 April 2023. The report has been shared with the Alpine Club and RAFMA. The original Club Andino Boliviano Certificate (page 18 of the PXR was included with Terry’s master copy) of the new routes has been offered to the RAF MRS for its history room at its RAF Valley HQ


CONTENTS

Page
 Introduction   1
Team Members   2
Itinerary   3
Report   5
Diary   13
Photographs 19 – 23
Annexes
A. Food
B.   Equipment
C.   Medical
D.   Finance
E.   Maps
F.   Acknowledgements
G.   Useful Addresses

Page 1

Royal Air Force Mountain Rescue Expedition to the

CORDILLERA REAL

INTRODUCTION

This report describes how eight members from the Royal Air Force Mountain Rescue Teams explored and climbed mountains in the Cordillera Real range of Bolivia. Climbing in Bolivia offers excellent climbing with relatively easy access, and despite this its popularity amongst climbers around the world is low. The climate in Bolivia during the winter months is cold and dry making it an attractive alternative to the unstable weather patterns of the greater ranges of the Himalayas.

During our visit to Bolivia we approached the only Mountain Rescue authority in Bolivia – The Club Andino Boliviano and exchanged ideas and techniques on mountain rescue.


Page 2

NOMINAL ROLL OF TEAM MEMBERS

FLIGHT SERGEANT KASTIAN TAYLOR

Aged 54 and member of Kinloss MRT. Experienced Alpinist with expeditions to Greenland, Canada, Norway and USA (Cascades).

SERGEANT TERRY MOORE: LEADER

Aged 37 and member of Leeming MRT. Experienced Alpinist with expeditions to Tibet (Everest), Nepal, India, Pakistan, Peru, Alaska, Canada, Iceland and South Africa.

CORPORAL NIGEL KENWORTHY: DIARY/LINGUIST

Aged 29 and member of Kinloss MRT. Two Alpine seasons with expeditions to Mexico and Canada.

CORPORAL STEWART LINNITT: FOOD/MEDICAL

Aged 24 and member of Leeming MRT. Two Alpine seasons with expeditions to Pyrenees and Sierra Nevada (Spain).

CORPORAL MARTIN McDERMOTT

Aged 24 and member of Kinloss MRT. Two Alpine seasons including ascent of Matterhorn.

JUNIOR TECHNICIAN ROBERT HANNAM: PHOTOGRAPHY

Aged 22 and member of St Athan MRT. Expeditions to Picos de Europa (Spain) and Dolomites.

JUNIOR TECHNICIAN PAUL JIGGINS: DEPUTY LEADER

Aged 25 and member of Valley MRT. Experienced Alpinist with expeditions to Mt Kenya, Kilimanjaro, Norway (Troll Wall), Nepal and Bolivia (89).

SENIOR AIRCRAFTMAN JOHN KER: EQUIPMENT

Aged 21 and member of Leeming MRT. Two Alpine seasons in France


Page 3

ITINERARY

31 MayDepart Gatwick Airport – London
1 JuneFlight to La Paz via Miami
2-4 June  Acclimatize in La Paz. Arrange food, transport, administration
5-10 JuneGroup 1 to Tiquimani
Group 2 to Huayna Potosi
11-12 JuneRecovery in La Paz
13-15 JuneBoth groups to Huayna Potosi
16 JuneTrekking around Zongo Pass
17-18 JuneRecovery in La Paz
19-23 JuneGroup 1 to Tiquimani
Group 2 to Condoriri
24-25 JuneRecovery in La Paz
26-30 JuneTrip to Lake Titicaca and Taquesi Valley
JulyLa Paz – CAB Meeting/party
2 JulyLa Paz – Rescue Techniques with CAB
3-4 JulyDepart La Paz – Arrive Miami
4-5 JulyDepart Miami – Arrive London Gatwick

Expedition in front of Huayna Potosi (6088m)

L to R (Rear) Moore, Jiggins, Taylor, McDermott, Linnitt (Front) Hannam, Kenworthy, Ker


Page 4

AFIL/ADA: DGDJ COB- FBSA UPAM FIS UIAA

REPORT

  1. AIMS

a) To explore untrodden ground in the Cordillera Real mountains of the South American Andes, with a view to climbing new routes.

b) To invite members of the Club Andino Boliviano (C.A.B) to join us on some of these climbs.

c) To experience high altitude mountaineering using Alpine Style techniques.

d) To discuss and practise mountain rescue techniques with the C.A.B – the only available personnel called upon to incidents in the mountains.

We were successful in achieving most of these aims though unfortunately no members of the C.A.B were able to join us on any climbs due to work commitments.

  1. BACKGROUND

Why Bolivia? Having visited the neighbouring country of Peru in 1986 I was impressed by the predictable periods of settled weather it enjoys during its winter months May to August. Other factors such as easy access to forward bases and a vast selection of peaks over 5,000 metres take away all the problems associated with some of the remote ranges in the Greater Himalaya. Whilst Peru has a number of beautiful and challenging mountains political constraints and internal problems with guerilla factions has made travelling in this country a risky business. We were advised to avoid Peru and therefore opt for Bolivia.

Our early communications with the Defence Attache for Bolivia and the Club Andino Boliviano welcomed the expedition and its aims and left me with the inspiration to research more into the literature on the mountains. This alone proved difficult with little being published in the climbing journals and no availability of a guide book in English. Sources of information available came from the following:

a) Expedition reports held in the Royal Geographical Society, London.

b) Alain Mesili’s Spanish guide book ‘’La Cordillera Real De Los Andes Bolivia”.

d) Discussions with Steve Hillen and Paul Jiggins, visitors to the area during the past two years.

e) Extracts and articles from mountaineering journals and magazines.

3.       SPONSORSHIP

Without a doubt fund raising is an important part of the planning. Were it not for the support of the sponsors and the RAF Grant giving organisations the expedition would not have taken place. Details of finances are at Annex D, and acknowledgements at Annex F. The financial climate during our bids for sponsorship, with the “Recession” in full swing and the threat of increased air fares did pose problems with the future of the expedition. A further complication with the New Management strategy (NMS) and its introduction to the RAF did delay processing of our applications for certain funds. All was resolved before we departed, but the inevitable cash flow problem and the “promise” of funds had its nail biting moments.

4.       CLIMATE

There are three distinct climatic regions in Bolivia.

a) Llanos and forest areas up to 5,000 feet, where temperate deciduous to tropical areas of the Amazonia span the Eastern borders.

b) The Valles – 5,000 – 12,000 feet which cover the open slopes bordering the highland regions and the planes.

c) The Altiplano – 12,000 feet upwards which is usually cold.

The dry cold season is usually May to September (Winter) and the wet, often warm season is November to February (Summer).

La Paz from El Alto

The diverse range of temperatures during June was noticeable with night temperatures falling either to or below freezing point. Even in La Paz evening temperatures were down to+ 3°C on average. Of the 32 days only three days were disrupted by bad weather. This arrived as falling snow above the Altiplano and rain in the city of La Paz. It was unfortunate that we were in the mountains at the time.

5.       GEOGRAPHY

Bolivia is the landlocked country in South America, bordering Peru to the Northwest, Brazil to the North and East, Paraguay to the Southwest, Argentina to the South and Peru and Chile to the West. The capital of La Paz in 3632 metres above sea level, being the worlds highest capital. Entry into Bolivia from overseas destinations 1s commonly by air and its airport is situated on the high planes of the Altplano amongst the sprawling town of El Alto (3965 metres). The mountain range of the Cordillera Real form the highlands between the Altiplano and the slopes which descent to the Amazon basin. It forms a linear range running roughly North-South and is the nearest to La Paz. Of importance is the mountain of Illimani (6490 metres) which forms the classic backdrop to La Paz. The isolated peak, although not technically difficult, is detached from the main range and is popular as a guided peak for tourists and many climbers.

6.        LANGUAGE

In La Paz you can survive using Spanish, though English is understood by some of the major restaurants and hotels. Away from the city only Spanish or the two Indigenous languages of Quechua or Amyara are spoken. As we operated close to La Paz we had no difficulty in communicating with the people and our two “crash-course” linguists – Kenny Kenworthy and Stu Linnitt managed to speed up our administration. Thankfully our host and friend Jaime Varela of the CAB helped us through many testing occasions and was instrumental in the smooth operation and success of the expedition.

7.       MAPS & GUIDEBOOKS

We purchased our maps from Stanfords in London, who provided at short notice a comprehensive list of South American maps. We also purchased additional maps from the Instituto Geografical Militar in La Paz, which is situated in a small shop on the main street of Avenida Mariscal Santa Marta. A 50,000 metre map with twenty metre contour intervals is produced for most of the Cordillera Real range which we found reasonably accurate. Names and heights on the maps differ from some bibliography printed on the subject, which for the peak of Cerro Ilampu (5,519 metres) is not recorded in the guidebooks and after altitude cross references we found to be known as Tiquimani. For this reason perhaps few expeditions visit the mountain. We used the Milluni sheet, Reference ROJA 5945 II. There is no English speaking guidebook, though we were sent a copy of Alain Mesili’s guide by the British Ambassador of Bolivia, Michael Daly. This well illustrated guide put everything into perspective and despite some inaccuracies it formed the basis for our objectives. The photographs were especially useful in our early planning.

Whilst the Peruvian Andes are well documented in English written guide books, Bolivia is still to be discovered and no doubt someone will eventually unfold its secrets.

8.       POLITICAL CLEARANCE & VISAS

It was important first to establish if there were any constraints imposed on Service expeditions and so the first aim was to signal the Defence Attache, who is actually based in Lima, Peru. A prompt reply informed us that there were no problems for servicemen entering the country. A lengthy application form was sent through Service channels and processed by the Ministry of Defence department who arranged our diplomatic clearances.

Visa abolishment exists between Bolivia and the UK but a free ‘Courtesy Visa’ was necessary. This was obtained from the Bolivian consulate in London, by an appointment visit a few days before we flew out. An application form with supporting passport size photographs and signed by each member, can be posted in advance but the loss of a passport in the post was too risky at this stage so a visit was preferred. If you intend taking specialist or group equipment into Bolivia a list of re-exportable goods should be franked by the consulate. This adds weight to any problems you may encounter with customs. Fortunately we condensed our equipment into our personal luggage which did not attract any attention at the customs in La Paz. We did take a franked list of our personal and climbing equipment but it was not used. Perhaps we were lucky.

9.        INSURANCE

Whilst we can enjoy the benefits of the Ministry of Defence recovery, a comprehensive insurance policy covering such things as injury, medical expenses, travel delays, loss of baggage is well recommended. As Servicemen on duty any expenses incurred through rescue and recovery back to the UK can be met by the Ministry of Defence. Our travel agent arranged our insurance, which although covers the average tourist did meet most of the problems we were likely to encounter. We did manage to lose one set of flight tickets, experience a theft of equipment, and evacuate back to UK – Stu Linnitt. The latter involved specialist treatment of an inflamed testicle which happily did not require surgery. Any losses of equipment should be reported to the Instituto Boliviano de Turismo, who will arrange at no charge a statement for presentation to the insurance company. Depending on the nature of loss an investigation may be taken further by the Police.

10.                        SECURITY

The horror stories from accounts of people travelling in South America did raise the eyebrows of each member but while we still heard about recent robberies and hold-ups in Peru this certainly was not the case in Bolivia. The presence of armed police on most of the streets and outside major shops and banks was a welcome sight. We were all surprised at the friendliness of the people of Bolivia both in and outside the city and never felt threatened by shifty looking characters or crowded streets.

In most of the Hotels and Residentials in La Paz a system for depositing valuables and documents takes away the possibility of theft in unoccupied rooms. As mountaineers the inevitable sprawl of drying kit in each room looks a tempting site for the hotel maids. We lost nothing in the rooms, at least to our knowledge. We deposited our air tickets and some documents with the British Embassy.

Travelling in Bolivia requires you to produce your passport or certainly its serial number when crossing check points. A photo copy of your passport is advisable in case of loss. If travelling in groups a typed list of all passport serial numbers and details is convenient and avoids everyone rummaging for their details.

11.                        FLIGHTS

Our tour operator Robert Sturdy Travel of Bedale was very helpful in searching for an economic flight to La Paz. Initially we were routed via Portugal and Venezuela with three overnight stops. As the Gulf war affected price increases we had to look again for the cheapest route. We eventually flew via Miami in Florida with no overnight stops. Although a tiring journey we saved a great deal from overnight expenses. Our baggage was transferred without re-checking it through to our connecting flight and after seeing it for the last time in London Gatwick were relieved at seeing it on the conveyor belt in La Paz airport. Virgin Atlantic provided an excellent flight to Miami and negotiated excess baggage right through to Bolivia. Lloyd Boliviano fly regular flights to Miami and their excellent flight safety record assured us of a safe passageway to La Paz.

Our return journey via Miami with the loss of time moving Eastwards through the time zones involved two overnight flights. A long wait in Miami for the connecting flight was well utilized by soaking up the sun on the beaches of Miami. Of interest is the USO Club in the airport which provides a comfortable refuge for Servicemen travelling around the world. Soft drinks and light refreshments at no cost is on offer and the availability of a hot shower and a cool television room has a definite advantage over the airport costs experienced only metres away. A donation from us ensured that others may benefit from the same facilities. After all it was the 4th of July!

12.       TRANSPORT

From La Paz a variety of methods were available. As the CAB offer a service to transport expeditions to the mountains at competitive prices we naturally took up their offer.

Public transport from La Paz is good and can be crowded at times. Some services require a booking in advance. The roads outside the city deteriorated rapidly into rough tracks, and four wheel drive vehicles were very popular in the remoter areas. Some passing trucks do pick up passengers but it is not a reliable method, especially when you descend the mountain to a remote track hoping for a lift to civilization. It may never come or even when it does they may not take you and your luggage on board. We preferred to arrange “drop offs” and “collect” times, and not chance any waiting around and so the CAB picked us up from our hotels/hostels and delivered us back to La Paz almost on time. Costs varied from 80-100 US Dollars a round trip for 6-8 men using a 4×4 pick-up truck.

Within the city you can experiment with the local Micro buses which run a complex network around the city at more than one sixth the price of a taxi. Taxis are convenient and take away the problems of overcrowding in the Micros.

Only on the Condorri Range did we use Llamas to carry our provisions to a forward base camp. These animals only carry 15-20 kilograms and costs are low. All other excursions involved heavy load carrying of 50 lb or more, but thankfully these entailed only 4-5 days of provisions. Donkeys and horses were available but most of our walks into base camp were relatively short – less than five hours of walking.

13.       ACCOMMODATION

In La Paz we enjoyed the luxuries of the Hotel El Dorado for our first four nights. This three star facility was booked by the CAB and more than adequate for our needs. We soon moved down market to save expenses on later visits to the city. English is spoken increasingly by the hotel staff as the grade of each hotel increases. The quality of the plumbing and food is also noticeable and can sometimes be a danger to your health! Hotels, Hostels or Residentials are everywhere and the smaller the group the less confusing to the staff you are. We found that working in two groups of four created less problems when checking in and out. Some Residentials will store unwanted baggage at no cost while you escape in the mountains. It was best to reserve rooms before departing, although on one occasion this did not work, causing flared tempers after a tiring journey back from the mountains. Costs range from

US$ 16-40 per double room. This also included shower, wash basin and towels. The residentials do not include breakfast but hotels generally do. In the mountains we used tents brought from the UK and occasionally we bivouacked.

14.      FOOD

We each took six man-days of dehydrated Service rations, which are described in detail at Annex A. This supplemented the local produce purchased in La Paz. The benefits of taking 24 hour “Arctic Marine” rations are the ‘small portion’ sachets especially convenient during Alpine style climbing. The only disadvantage was carrying them from UK within our personal baggage allowance! Purchasing food in Bolivia is not a problem providing you buy it all in La Paz. Outside the city the choice is restricted. Supermarkets and street stalls sell just about anything. We opted to cook in groups of four which made shopping and catering easier to manage. Additional comments are at Annex A.

15.                    MEDICAL

South America requires additional vaccinations which through the RAF Regional Medical Centres was easily ordered, if not in stock. The following were recommended: Yellow Fever, Cholera, typhoid, Polio, Hepatitis and Rabies. The later was optional but the high risk of Cholera following the epidemic in neighbouring Peru was compulsory. At La Paz airport notices warning you of the Cholera epidemic were subtle reminders of the problem. There were no reported outbreaks in La Paz or any of the elevated ground above 7,000 feet. Sadly, the media coverage on this epidemic did affect the tourist industry in Bolivia, so the tour operators told us. We were not challenged at the airport for any vaccination certificates.

We took medical supplies with us and each provided his own First-Aid kit for the mountains. A list at Annex C shows the minimum taken. Additional items like sun screen and vitamin tablets were provided by the individuals. Stu Linnitt supplied and collated our First Aid and Medical requirements.

It was unfortunate that Stu Linnitt had to return to the UK within seven days of arriving in Bolivia due to a swollen testicle. At altitude it aggravated him and when acclimatizing on the West Face of Huayna Potosi at 16,300 feet had to return to La Paz for treatment. Consultants in La Paz, although experienced could only offer surgery and a minimum rest period of two weeks. This was impractical and so on advise from his Medical Officer at RAF Leeming, should return to the UK. After help from Robin Shackle of the British Embassy, and Jimmy Varela of the CAB, Stu was back in UK within three days. Thankfully surgery was not required.

We all suffered from diarrhoea at some stage and the inevitable headaches from acclimatizing. Sore throats, cold sores and chapped lips also affected some of the team, with John Ker having to seek medical advice on a throat infection. He had to remain in La Paz during one of our excursions into the mountains as the cold dry air made breathing, let alone eating at altitude quite painful for him.

We are thankful that no one injured themselves or needed hospitalization. Thanks should go to Stu’s wife Julia, who was instrumental in making up the medical kit and who also had to see a grumpy husband return home.

Surprisingly we found many Pharmacies in the streets with a variety of Western remedies on offer to the public. Of interest were the number of local cures available on street stalls, mostly in the form of herbal remedies. These were sold by aging women with some cures more akin to witchcraft than Homeopathy. Especially the dried corpses of birds!

16.      EQUIPMENT

At first we intended to freight equipment in advance and utilize standard air baggage allowances, but the cost of freighting food and equipment was not economical. However, until we heard from the airline companies of our request for additional baggage we had to budget for the worst case.

Having established that we should “pair off” to economise on climbing hardware and avoid duplicating our technical and domestic hardware it soon became evident that very little was going to be freighted out. Baggage at Gatwick Airport, London weighed in between 25-43 kilograms each, which did not bother the airline staff at all. Virgin Atlantic had received notice of our bid for additional baggage and wavered all our weights saying providing you only have two bags you’re on. This proved to be a great saving.

Each member took one climbing rope and a portion of the camping hardware.

Tents

We took “Wild Country Quasars” and “Mountain Quasars” which were spacious and more than adequate for the climate. The heavy fall of snow during our first week in the mountains did not disrupt the comports of camping apart from gusting wind at the entrance, where cooking had to be tolerated.

STOVES

Advice on fuel supplies was important. Camping “Gaz” was in short supply in Bolivia and “Epigas” butane/propane cartridges were as yet not on sale. Methylated spirits and Paraffin could be purchased though not abundant on the markets. Petrol was a popular fuel with cheap supplies every where. We took Coleman MSR stoves which used leaded or unleaded fuels as well as paraffin. Filtering your fuel and frequent cleaning was essential. One stove became blocked after only two uses from new. We suspect this was a manufacturers fault as all the others performed very well in temperatures down to -1O°C. We took priming paste to accelerate the priming system and avoid flare-ups.

You can buy large local petrol stoves in the markets, and although bulky they would suit larger expeditions.

BOOTS

We all took plastic double mountain boots, which were more than adequate. Single leather boots could have been used. On the approach walks to the camps we used both plastic boots and training shoes.

CLOTHING

We were all equipped with standard issue RAF Mountain Rescue clothing, which normally experiences the weather of winter in the Scottish Highlands. Dress would follow close to that of Alpine climbing in Western Europe. A list at Annex B details the most preferred clothing taken. We found that a broad rimmed hat or neck scarf was useful in keeping off the strong sunlight. Tracksuit bottoms were used in preference to breeches. A lightweight windsuit was carried by some and the Gore-tex shell clothing dispensed with altogether. Whilst some took duvet jackets, it was not essential. The fall in temperature at sun down was rapid so only those wishing to enjoy the evening air in preference to diving into a sleeping bag benefited from such luxuries.

CLIMBING HARDWARE

We felt that one 9mm rope each was adequate though we did take a spare. A selection of rock and ice pegs plus some artificial chocks catered for most routes. The nature of some of the rock is loose, though we climbed mainly on snow and ice. Snow stakes are essential on selected routes, though deadmen anchors could have sufficed. A good supply of nylon tape slings for descending was necessary.

17.                    RESCUE

There is no recognised Mountain Rescue Organisation in Bolivia, though steps are underway to establish some system. Shortly after this expedition a meeting by the Pan America countries was to be held in La Paz to plan a series of seminars to formulate Mountain Rescue Policy in South America. At present only a handful of guides from the Club Andino Boliviano form any such rescues in the mountain. The Military Police have the only helicopters available to extricate people from the mountains, but this is not a guaranteed asset for such use.

Even though guides can be transported relatively quickly by road transport to the base of the mountains it does not assume that they are acclimatized to that altitude. This poses a risk not only to themselves but to the evacuation of the rescuees. This is not unlike the Himalayas in that rapid evacuation can best be accomplished by helicopters with a crew using oxygen. Financing an organisation for rescue is still to be addressed and the infrequency of call-outs do not merit, at present, the establishment of a mountain rescue helicopter.                                                  A helicopter and crew should I feel be dedicated for such occasions and be trained accordingly, though financial constraints will determine this.

We demonstrated and practised how to make a rope stretcher to the CAB members as they have no mountain stretcher. We also covered the use of ropes as a means of rescuing injured or fatal climbers from a steep rock face single handed (Crag-snatch method). Other self rescue techniques were practised but we felt that some of these were complicated and not essential to basic mountain rescue work.

As the Bolivians do not have climbing or mountain clothing shops their only means of experimenting or familiarizing themselves with modern equipment is from foreign expeditions. Importing and taxation is expensive so mail ordering equipment and clothing is lengthy and not economical. We donated some of our hardware and have recently sent them a MacInnes folding mountain stretcher.

The situation in Bolivia regarding rescue is still not solved and expeditions should be prepared to rescue their own casualties, at least in part to the road head.

First-aid was not discussed but the CAB President is himself a consulting doctor and an active climber. We found the CAB friendly and keen to learn about rescue techniques and hope that with time they can be relied upon to carry out such missions of mercy.

18.     FINANCE

Whilst trying to bury the problem of finance you cannot avoid it, which makes it the single most important factor after seeking permission to climb in Bolivia. Details of income and expenditure are at Annex D.

As the income to the expedition was going to be erratic a cash flow problem was inevitable so we monitored the balance by regular statements from the business account. This was handled efficiently by Midlands PLC of Ripon who gave sound advice and information on credit, debit and overdraft. We opted to take cash out in US dollars in various dominations which was dispersed amongst the team in money belts. Traveler’s cheques could have been used in La Paz to pay hotel bills, and transferred into local currency. Documents and money was deposited in the hotel deposit boxes, however the British Embassy retained our air-tickets and some cash.

The latter should not be relied upon and we had no difficulty with safe deposits in the hotels. Credit cards can be used in some hotels and shops.

Exchanging currency in the banks can be a long and protracted affair and is more easily transacted on street corners by currency traders. Hotels changed currency easily too and like the street traders offered the same if not better exchange rates than the banks. Rates of exchange varied from 3.55 to 3.58 Bolivianos to the US dollar.

19. SUMMARY

An eight man expedition from the RAF Mountain Rescue Teams to attempt new routes on peaks of the Andean Cordillera Real of Bolivia, and to demonstrate mountain rescue skills to the Club Andino Boliviano.

In all three major peaks were climbed – Huayna Potosi (6,088m), Condoriri (5,648m) and Tiquimani (5,519m) the latter by two new routes which included the first British ascent. The Club Andino Boliviano now have a mountain stretcher and a basic knowledge of improvised rescue techniques using ropes and karabiners.

DIARY

30/31 May

Expedition members arrive at London Gatwick Airport. Linnitt and Ker arrive late evening on 30th and await remaining team at 0900 hrs on 31st. Check in baggage with Virgin Atlantic airlines for flight to Miami. Our excess baggage was cleared without additional fees, thanks to the Virgin Atlantic Office who informed the desk of our expedition. They even arranged for it to be transferred at Miami at the Lloyd Aero Boliviano airline without additional cost. We departed Miami at 2100 hours and flew via Caracas and Manaos to La Paz.

1 June

Arrive at El Alto Airport, La Paz at 0550 hours. A swift shuffle through customs saw us bracing the fresh cool air on the steps of the airport. It was +1°C and at 13,000 feet we all felt light headed just carrying our baggage outside. Thirty minutes later two Club Andino Boliviano (CAB) members, Hugscar Pacheco (President) and Jimmy Varela arrived with two trucks to transport us 2,000 feet down to our hotel in La Paz. The day was spent resting, eating and observing the local culture around the steep narrow streets.

2 June

Meet CAB to arrange transport into mountains. Moore, McDermott, Kenworthy attempt to climb a steep conglomerate boulder outcrop in La Paz while the amused CAB members watched on. Jiggins, Linnitt and Ker opt to acclimatise in a short taxi ride to the slopes of Chacaltaya and experience the rarified air at 5,200 metres.

3 June

Visit British Embassy and register expedition. All walk the steep streets of the city to acclimatize. Evening meeting with Club Andino Boliviano to discuss expedition plans and mountain rescue training.

4 June

Further acclimatizing with short walks around the slopes at La Paz. Purchase of fresh rations.

5 June

All of expedition depart La Paz and drive to North West slopes of Huayna Potosi to drop off Linnitt, Jiggins, Ker and Harman (group 2) at col 866981 (4,920 metres). Group 1 with Moore, Taylor, McDermott and Kenworthy drive on to Zongo Pass then descend into Rio Zongo for drop off at path for Tiquimani (941068).

GROUP 1
Ascend path to Cerrol Ilampu (Tiquimani) and camp near a stream by 5pm.

GROUP 2
Walk along aqueduct towards glacier and below Huayna Potosi (2.5 km). Jiggins inspects glacier and Linnitt complains of pain in testicles.

6 June

Group ascends to pass and Laguna War­ Warani. Views of Tiquimani South face while ascending Cerro Japu Japuni (5,000m) Impressive flight of Condor circling group.
Return to base satisfied.

Sun reaches tent at 0840. Very cold. Linnitt and Hannam depart base for La Paz at 10am, intending to seek medical examination of his testicles. Jiggins & Ker walk up glacier and lower slopes at Huayna Potosi for inspection at face and return to base optimistic.

7 June

Kenworthy/McDermott ascend Cerro Japu Japuni summit (5O88m) and return to base in thickening cloud. Moore/Taylor descend to pass and down to traverse line to gain the SE Ridge (new route).
Thickening cloud & slow progress prevent further inspection of ridge. Descend to Estancia Uma Palca – a small cluster of dwellings in the Rio Tiquimani. Bivouac in sleet, rain and drizzle on grass bank. No sleep.

Awoke to thickening cloud, wind and sleet & snow. Hannam arrives in afternoon to find no movement of Jiggins & Ker. Remainder of day preparing for a rough passage of bad weather.   Linnitt flies out late evening to the UK for medical treatment.

8 June

Sleet and snow throughout day. Moore/ Taylor depart Um Palca and ascend to Laguna Wara Warani to meet McDermott on path looking for us. Return to base in deteriorating weather. Kenworthy/ McDermott had no breakfast or hot meal on evening of 7th due to stolen equipment and clothing, by local shepherds. Two stoves taken. One stove now between four. Conditions on Tiquimani are dangerous.

Awake to bad weather and 12 inches of snow. Dig out tents and remain at base and generally complaining about the weather.

9 June

All break camp and descend into Rio Zongo hoping for lift to the pass. Taylor is separated during long road march to Power Station below Zongo Pass. Moore/ Kenworthy/McDermott cram into one tent for night by Power Station. Taylor takes lift beyond to the Zongo Pass and beds down in a stable. Snowing most of the day.

Break camp and continue to Milluni taking 2½ hours to do 2km. Arrive at Milluni at 2pm and then return to La Paz from available lift in passing truck.

11 June
Recovery in Rosario Residential and rest period.

12 June
Kenworth/Moore with Jimmy Varela (CAB) to Police Tourist Office to report theft. All relax in the City enjoying bright lights and the cosmopolitan atmosphere.

13 June
All drive to Zongo Pass. Drop off Kenworthy/Taylor/McDermott to attempt Huayna Potosi by normal route. Moore/Ker/Hannam/Jiggins continue to drop off at Tiquimani path in Rio Zongo. Ker feeling unwell due to throat infection so all return to Zongo Pass to join others. Ker returns to La Paz with vehicle. Camping behind Zongo Pass check point. Jiggins departs alone at midnight to attempt summit of Huayna Potosi (6,088m).

14 June

Moore/Kenworthy/Taylor/McDermott/Hannam depart 9.30am and ascend morain and glacier to camp at 5,600m. Meet Jiggins returning after not completing final 50m of summit due to strong winds. He is tired though pleased and descends to the Zongo Pass.

Fresh winds during evening though little snow.

15 June

Early start delayed due to strong winds but group departs at 9.30am and reach summit in perfect weather conditions 4½ hours later. A steep knife edge ridge on the summit with views looking down onto the W face, previously inspected by Group 2 last week. All ascend to Zongo Pass after admiring the panorama of the Cordillera Real Range, stretching northwards.

16 June

A rest day for most. Some opt to stretch their legs and walk up the slopes of the Cerro Telata, Cerro Charquinic and the Southern peak of Huayna Potosi. All returned by 2pm to find transport ready to take expedition back to La Paz. Return to La Paz by 7pm. Ker in Robin Shackell’s house having a good time and recovering from a throat infection.

17 & 18 June

Recovery and rest period in La Paz.

19 June

Group 1 Moore/Hannam/Jiggins/Ker depart La Paz and drive to path for Tiquimani in Rio Zongo.

Group 2 Kenworthy/Taylor/McDermott depart La Paz and drive to road head to climb Condoriri (5,648m).

Group 1
Ascend path – this time clear of snow to Laguna Wari Warani and descend to filter reservoir 60m below. Camp at idyllic site next to water tunnel and directly under Tiquimani S face. Wind increasing during night.

Group 2
Depart road head after hiring 12 llamas to carry loads up to the base camp 4 km away and below Condoriri. Meet other British, German, New Zealand and Bolivians at base camp. Llamas are difficult to handle and more stupid than sheep.

20 June

Jiggins & Ker set off at 6.15 am and ascend new route up the left side of the snow and glacier tongue hanging down the SW face. Hannam walks up Cerro Japu Japuni to take photographs of Tiquimani. Moore remains at camp site to ward off possible thieves! Jiggins/ Ker return from successful climb at Scottish Grade IV by abseiling the entire route.

Taylor/McDermott set off late to inspect Condoriri (normal route) behind two New Zealand climbers. Kenworthy remains at base camp. Slow going on mountain and all return without reaching the summit.

21 June

Moore/Hannam depart base for ascent of unclimbed South West ridge on Tiquimani. Jiggins/Ker rest at camp all day. The SW ridge involved traversing under the craggy South face and ascending mixed ground, mostly on loose rock to arrive at a large platform at 5,200 m. The weather was perfect and the bivouac site selected was sloping at 10° and on a platform the size of a football pitch. Distant thunderstorms over the Amazon rainforest could be seen to illuminate the horizon, with spectacular flashes of lightning.

Kenworthy remains at base camp. Taylor explores a sharp pointed peak reminiscent of the Matterhorn in Switzerland, and McDermott ascends small hill opposite to view Huayna Potosi. The rock was found to be loose on the Matterhorns twin.

22 June

Jiggins/Ker remain at base camp. Moore/ Hannam depart for summit of Tiquimani at 8am and reach summit at 11.35am in perfect weather. Soft snow, loose rock but not difficult. Overall grade at ascent 21/22 June was Alpine PD with pitches of IV. Descend to bivouac site, collect gear and return down similar route to base, arriving in darkness.

McDermott remains at base camp. Taylor/Kenworthy depart at 7am for ascent at Condoriri. Reach pyramid below summit at 11am and continue up the knife-edged snow ridge to the summit. An exposed climb with breathtaking scenery. Return to base at 6pm.

23 June

All break camp and after a meagre breakfast descend to the Rio Zongo by 11.50 am to await transport by the CAB. They arrive at 4.40pm as thickening cloud and drizzle ends our last views of the mountains before returning to La Paz. Arrive in La Paz at 6.10pm.

All break camp and return to road head to await transport by CAB. Arrive in La Paz at 6.25pm

24 & 25 June
Relax and recover in La Paz. Eat, sleep and generally have a good time.

26 June

All team take minibus to Copacabana – a small fishing and tourist resort on the shores of Lake Titicaca (3,812 m = 12,507’) intending to relax for a couple of days and take in the Inca history and local culture.

27 June

Daily boat trip to Island of the Sun – a small, inhabited island renowned for its importance as the birth of the Inca Kingdom six centuries ago. Little evidence of ancient civilization as the ruins have been reduced to foundations – if that.

Moore/Taylor return to La Paz in evening.

28 June

Kenworthy returns to La Paz. Team now relaxing in Copacabana and La Paz.

29 June

Moore/Taylor/Kenworthy join British Embassy Staff and guests to walk the Takesi Inca Trail. This pleasant trek takes a steep climb over a 4,650m pass then descends to 2,100m in the lush jungle countryside of the Amazon fringe uplands. This involved camping on a terraced field overlooking the steep valley of Taquesi amongst the densely wooded jungle.

30 June

Taquesi Trail group continues to road head with staggered departures by various ad hoc transport to La Paz. Copacabana group return to La Paz.

1  July

Relax in La Paz. Moore gives slide show of the British Services Everest 88 Expedition to the CAB in evening at the Club Headquarters. Presentations and speeches exchanged.

2 July

Team to crag outcrop in La Paz to demonstrate mountain rescue and self rescue techniques to the CAB. Moore gives slide show on BSEE 88 to British Embassy Staff and guests in evening.

3 July

Jimmy Varela of the CAB takes us to the Airport at El Alto by 5.30pm. Fly to Miami via Santa Cruz and Panama.

4 July

American Independence Day. Arrive 8.30am in Miami, and deposit luggage with Virgin Atlantic desk. Remainder of day spent on North Beach or in airport building. Use of USO (American Serviceman’s Club) in airport. Depart Miami 8pm. Richard Branson on board flight London Gatwick.

5 July

Arrive London Gatwick at 8am and depart for parent units


26 June

All team take minibus to Copacabana – a small fishing and tourist resort on the shores of Lake Titicaca (3,812 m = 12,507’) intending to relax for a couple of days and take in the Inca history and local culture.

27 June

Daily boat trip to Island of the Sun – a small inhabited island renowned for its importance as the birth of the Inca Kingdom six centuries ago. Little evidence of ancient civilization as the ruins have been reduced to foundations – if that.

Moore/Taylor return to La Paz in evening.

28 June

Kenworthy returns to La Paz. Team now relaxing in Copacabana and La Paz.

29 June

Moore/Taylor/Kenworthy join British Embassy Staff and guests to walk the Takesi Inca Trail. This pleasant trek takes a steep climb over a 4,650m pass then descends to 2,100m in the lush jungle countryside of the Amazon fringe uplands. This involved camping on a terraced field overlooking the steep valley of Taquesi amongst the densely wooded jungle.

30 June

Taquesi Trail group continues to road head with staggered departures by various ad hoc transport to La Paz. Copacabana group return to La Paz.

1  July

Relax in La Paz. Moore gives slide show of the British Services Everest 88 Expedition to the CAB in evening at the Club Headquarters. Presentations and speeches exchanged.

2 July

Team to crag outcrop in La Paz to demonstrate mountain rescue and self rescue techniques to the CAB. Moore gives slide show on BSEE 88 to British Embassy Staff and guests in evening.

3 July

Jimmy Varela of the CAB takes us to the Airport at El Alto by 5.30pm. Fly to Miami via Santa Cruz and Panama.

4 July

American Independence Day. Arrive 8.30am in Miami, and deposit luggage with Virgin Atlantic desk. Remainder of day spent on North Beach or in airport building. Use of USO (American Serviceman’s Club) in airport. Depart Miami 8pm. Richard Branson on board flight London Gatwick.

5 July Arrive London Gatwick at 8am and depart for parent units


Cite:       CAB NQ 001 /91
Fecha:,____________________

Expedition Leader: Sergeant T.G. MOORE
Patron: Air vice Marshal R.J Honey CB CBE RAF

Cite:    CAB NQ 001 /91

This is to Certify that “Royal air Force Mountain Rescue Expedition to the Cordillera Real”, arrived in La Paz, Bolivia to Perform Climbing at the following mountains on the Real Andes Side.

15 June Huayna Potosi (Elev.6069 Metres Above sea Level)

1,2,3;4,5,6 and 7

20; 21; 22 June TIQUIMANI(cerro Illampu} (Elev 5519 Metre Above sea Level)

On climbing Tiquimani mountain The expedition opened two new

Routes (4 – 6 ice route/South Face; 7 – 5 South east ridge/south face) Which are duly registered at Club Andino Boliviano”
4,5,6 and 7

22 June CONDORIRI                (Elev. 5848 Metres above sea Level)

1,2 and3

The expedition was composed by the following cumbers:

1.- Kenworthy Nigel
2.- Taylor Kas
3.- Mc Dermott Martin
4.- Ker John
5.- Hannan Robert
6.- Jiggins Paul
7.- Moore Terry

Certified Correct And Aproved
By:

Calle Mexico 1638                    Tetefono 324682                 Casilla 1346       La Paz Bolivia Sud America



Fish Market in La Paz

Spice Market in La Paz

Huayna Potosi (6,088 metres)

Tiquimani Jiggins/Ker Route (Scottish Grade 4)

Hannam Ascending Tiquimani

South East Ridge of Tiquimani (5,519 metres)


ANNEX A

FOOD

  1. The objective was to take only six man-days each of Service dehydrated rations to supplement food purchased in Bolivia. Of the Service rations, these were obtained through the Catering Flight – RAF Leeming and given to individuals to pack into their personal baggage. Listed in Appendix 1 is a table of menus for ‘Arctic­ Marine’ rations taken. Comments on the contents varied but as a supplement to the local food it provided manageable portions which was especially important during lightweight ascents.

COMMENTS SERVICE
RATIONS

  1. These are broken down into breakfast, snacks, main meal and sundries. Menus varied with Main Meal being soya granules of mutton, beef curry or chicken supreme. In itself a bland and unpopular food but spiced and supplemented with local vegetables and garlic gave a satisfying result to all that was hungry. Powdered mashed potatoes and rice were chosen according to popularity and was simple to prepare. The breakfast in tradition was porridge, muesli or both. The porridge was produced by crumbling and rehydrating an oatmeal biscuit. The snacks were popular, though heavy and formed the basis of food on the climbs. Only one vegetarian in the team stayed clear of the meat spreads. The tea bags, coffee, sugar and powder milk sachets were convenient and popular. Tinned tuna, though a snack, was a favourite and preferred as a basis for main meal recipes. Sundries packs were only exploited for their Handy-Andy paper packs and matches. Micro sheets of toilet paper were disposed of in Lima, in preference to a roll of paper or Handy-Andys. The safety matches were not a success, especially at altitude where the thin air produced only a puff of smoke and no flame. No flame – no heat – no food!

RECOMMENDATIONS

  1. Although designed for the soldier in the field for limited periods it suits its purpose, but with an unlimited number of flavourings, additives and E numbers I’m sure main meals can be improved on. The moral implications in looking forward to a tasty meal, with or without wine, is important – especially when the energy levels at the end of the day are down. The statement of “He’ll eat anything when he’s hungry” does not always apply at altitude! Matches require a larger burning head and fail easily under damp conditions. Rolos were tasty but fiddly unwrapping the package, especially in very cold or very hot temperatures. Simple packing with one layer is adequate.

LOCAL FOOD PURCHASES

  1. Despite the dry inhospitable surroundings of La Paz and the Altiplano the variety of fresh fruit and vegetables in the markets is astounding. Transported by a network of trucks from the Amazon Basin there was plenty of choice. Cheap and colourful you could buy exotic fruits and bananas by the crate. Spices piled three feet high and in many colours there was no shortage of imagination. Food can be purchased with amusement on the street stalls or in Western style from the affluent areas with supermarkets. Brand names known in the USA and UK were available at similar prices, and cheap local brands were left to the risk of the shopper. In all not a problem but popular purchases included, bread, cheese, soup mixes, pasta, well known chocolate brands and spices. Prices varied according to the district you shopped in and not open to bartering.

COOKING

  1. Using MSR Whisperlite stoves in groups of two or four proved adequate, though care should be taken when lighting in confined spaces. We took oblong service mess tins and camping cook set pans, which were light and easy to clean. Surprisingly we had difficulty in purchasing additional pans, plastic cups and plates in La Paz, suitable to carry up a mountain. No climbing or camping shops exist in Bolivia. The popularity of climbers and campers remain to be exploited so there is only a small market for the likes of expeditions or trekkers. All foods were cooked in the traditional camping manner, at the tent entrance in total chaos. The cold mornings did not affect us though water had to be melted from a stockpile of snow. In low camps water from the streams were safe to drink but advisable to boil as sheep and llamas frequently visit them. A case of ‘Weil’s’ disease was reported by a British climber that month. The quality of fuel is poor and cleaning the stove every two days was a necessity. Petrol is cheap, paraffin was not used but is an alternative providing you filter it. Camping gas is scarce and not a reliable source of fuel in the current financial climate.

CONCLUSION

  1. We felt that although the Service rations were worthwhile you could practically buy 90% of it in Lima, though in large quantities. Disposable lighters and lightweight cooking pots taken from the UK is advisable. Take a multi-fuel stove that burns either petrol or paraffin and have it filtered before use. Large petrol burning stoves can be purchased in the markets but were not used by us. These may well satisfy larger expeditions

APPENDIX 1 TO
ANNEX  A

ARCTIC RATIONS

LIST OF CONTENTS

CommodityPackContentABCD
Breakfast
Rolled oats mixSachet70g (2½ oz)
Paper tissuesPacketTrade
Wooden spatulaLooseSingle
Snack
Biscuits, Service brownPouch84g (3 oz)
Biscuits, fruit filledPouch95g (3½ oz)
Ham spreadED can50g (2 oz)
Beef spreadED can50g (2 oz)
Chicken spreadED can50g (2 oz)
Chicken and bacon spreadED can50g (2 oz)1
Chocolate, full creamBar
Chocolate, full creamBarTrade wt1111
Chocolate biscuit and fruitBarTrade wt1111
Chocolate caramels (trade)TubeTrade wt2222
Nuts and raisinsSachet42g (1½ oz)1111
Dextrose tablets (orange)Tube42g ( 1½ oz) 1 1
Dextrose tablets (lemon)Tube42g (1½ oz)    
Main Meal
 Instant soup Sachet0.28 litre (½ pint)2222
Beef granulesSachet70g (2½ oz)    
Curried beef granulesSachet70g (2½ oz)    
Mutton granulesSachet70g (2½ oz)    
Chicken supreme granulesSachet70g (2½ oz)    
Pre-cooked riceSachet85g (3 oz)    
Mashed potato powderSachet60g (2¾ oz)    
Peas, quick driedSachet40g (1½ oz)    
Apple flakesSachet28g (1 oz)    
Apple and apricot flakesSachet28g (1 oz)    
Drinks and sundries      
Chocolate drink mixSachet85g (3 oz)1111
Coffee, instantSachetSg (1/6 oz)2222
TeaTeabag0.28 litre (½ pint)6666
Beef stock drinkSachetSg (1/6 oz)1111
Non-dairy whitenerSachet3g (1/10 oz)16161616
SugarSachet25g (1 oz)6666
Drink powder: orange or lemonSachet25g (1 oz)1111
Chewing gumPacketTrade wt1111
MatchesBookletTrade1111
Matches, waterproof with strikerSachet5 matches1111
Water purification tabletsFoil strip6 tablets1111
Toilet paperSheets 10101010

ANNEX B

EQUIPMENT

1. In addition to comments in the text, listed below is clothing and equipment taken with comments where necessary.

PERSONAL KIT LIST

Rucksack: Large 50 litre minimum. Some took additional climbing sac. Sleeping Bag: 4 season minimum.

Bivouac Bag: Gore-Tex.

Sleeping Mattress: Thermarest and standard karrimat. Boots: Plastic double.

Socks: Terry-stitch.

Breeches/Salopettes: Either suitable but tracksuit bottoms adequate. Thermal underwear: Mostly synthetic polymers.

Shirt/Jersey: Buffalo fibre-pile with Pertex shell. Wool/alpaca available out there.

Duvet Jacket: A luxury but useful during chores after sun-down. Balaclava: Wool & synthetic. Alpaca hats available in markets. Gloves: Dachstein wool outer, synthetic inners.

Helmet: No preference but essential on mixed routes. Harness: Troll, various types.

Ice axe/hammer: Longer shafts more useful, but not essential. Crampons: Salewa & Grivel 2F – problems of “balling-up”.

Sunglasses/Goggles: Essential even when off the snow. Whistle/compass: Compass not essential as maps are inaccurate. Swiss Army Knife: With corkscrew for wine.

Head Torch: Batteries are not always available in La Paz. Gaiters: Yeti type useful on snow, but not essential.

Water Bottle: Essential, plastic Sigg or PET lemonade bottles. Sun Creams: High factor.

Hat, Scarf: All types sold in markets.

B-1

Holdall: Lockable if possible.

Passport Photographs: 3 each in case of driving licence. Money Belt: Surprisingly not essential in Bolivia.

Ski Poles: Useful for long plods. Gore-tex Waterproofs: Hardly used.

Windsuit: Pertex type but not essential. Light weight alternative.

Shorts: Not essential and generally impolite but ok at base camps. Few occasions to wear them.

Cup, knife, spoon, plate: bought in La Paz but not always practical.

UK lightweights preferred. Don’t take wooden spoons – dogs love to clean them! Disposable Lighters: Bought in markets.

Climbing Hardware: Sufficient for Alpine route with additional slings.

Group Equipment

Tents: Mountain Quasar two man. Snow valence not essential. Cookers: MSR Whisperlite International. Needs frequent cleaning. Pans: Lightweight not always available in La Paz.

Rope: 9mm x 50 metre each. 1 spare but not used. (8mm suitable). Fuel bottles: Sigg type and local purchase plastic (often leaks). Bin Liners:


ANNEX C

MEDICAL REPORT

Our communal medical kit was divided into the two groups where possible and held at the forward base. Sore throats, chapped lips and diarrhoea were common requiring simple remedies. John Ker and Stu Linnitt were the only members who had to withdraw from the mountain due to additional medical treatment.

John contracted a throat infection and remained in La Paz receiving antibiotics from the City doctors before he was able to return.

Stu developed a swollen testicle due to an inflammation of one of the testes tubes. This painful and uncomfortable symptom required specialist examination in La Paz.

After this and consultation with Wing Commander ‘Doc’ Jones by telephone at RAF Leeming he was advised to take the next available flight back to the UK. Alternatively, hospital treatment in La Paz with an operation meant recovery in La Paz for the remainder of the expedition. He was flying towards the UK within 36 hours. Sadly Stu had been in Bolivia only seven days but managed to achieve his personal height record on the slopes of Huayna Potosi.

Our information and preparation of medical equipment was sought from the Loughborough Andes ’89 report and the medical staff at RAF Leeming. A list of equipment taken over and above each personal first aid kit is at Appendix 1 to this Annex.

CONCLUSION

Medical treatment in La Paz is questionable though reports on good authority claim that treatment is of a high standard, especially in the hospitals. General Practitioners in their diagnosis and treatment to John’s throat differed resulting in a slow recovery. Pharmaceutical dispensers are everywhere in the City centre and offer a variety of standard drugs, with brand names common to American and European stores. Alternative ‘witch-doctor’ remedies in the form of herbal mixtures and dried animal remains can be purchased on the Street stalls, but are best left to the locals. While our medical kit covered most eventualities, we used only Immodium and sun creams. We felt that this was sufficient though open to debate in reducing it. It packed down to less than 3 kilograms in a standard medical haversack

14 x 12 x 8 inches.

Our adopted plan to acclimatize in La Paz (approx 3,600 metres) for four nights on our arrival worked well with only headaches and lethargy being common amongst the members. For larger groups a doctor on the expedition is advisable.


C-1

APPENDIX 1 TO
ANNEX  C

Vaccinations

We were advised to be vaccinated against: Yellow fever, typhoid, polio, hepatitis A and tetanus.

Medical Items and Equipment Taken

(for 8 people)

              

Analgesics

ITEM               QUANTITYUSE
Solpadeine100tabsMigraine
Paracetamol400tabsMild pain
Temgesic30tabsFractures etc.
Difflam1tubeSprains
Surgam40tabsPain and stiffness
Antibiotics   
Flucloxacillin24tabsBroad spectrum
Zinnat12tabsAntibiotics
Ciproxin Flagyl60 100tabs tabsDysentery
Night sedative   
Temazepam100tabs4 hours sleep
Antihistamine   
Hismanal60tabsHayfever, bites
Antiholminthic   
Vermox40tabsWorms
Bronchodilator   
Ventolin              2 inhalers Wheeze
Diuretics
Frusemide Antacid50 tabs Pulmonary oedema
Antacid
Aludrox50 tabsIndigestion
Axid50 tabsCastric bleed
Laxative
Senna50 tabsConstipation
Constipant
Imodium 200 tabs Diarrhoea
Rehydration Salts
Electrolade100 sachetsDiarrhoea
Steroid
Dexamethasone50 tabsPulmonary oedema
Eye and Skin Care
Amethocaine10 droppersEye pain
Genticin eye drops4 droppersEye/ear infection
Daktarin8 packsFungal skin infection
Tanderil4 tubesSnow blindness
Betnovate1 tubeRashes, sunburn
Codeine phosphate50 tabsCough
Medical Equipment
Tweezers1
Crepe bandages3
Cotton wrap12
Triangular bandages3
Gauze4
Durapore6
Micropore8
Tegaderm8
Skin closures40
Scissors1
Thermometer2
Mediswabs40
Non-absorbent dressings12

General
Sun cream
Multivitamins
Iodine Water treatment
Savlon Disinfectant

Antimalarial

Avlochlor } Quantity decided
Paludrin   } individually.


ANNEX D

Exchange rates at 1 June 91:     1.7 US dollar to £1 sterling.

3.56 Bolivian dollar to 1 US dollar.


INCOME

Personal contribution3920.00
Service messing (cash in lieu of rations)1260.40
Trenchard Memorial Award1000.00
RAF Leeming Expedition Fund RAFMA400.00
Combined SIF802.00
RAF Command C Funds200.00
HQSTC400.00
CO RAF Leeming 150.00
Sponsorship*1424.40
Raffle97.00
10253.80

SPONSORSHIP
British Aerospace
Dowty Group
Guisborough Round Table
Mr & Mrs R Jones
Macallum/Glen Livet
F. Parkinson
Propulsion Flight – RAF Leeming
Johnson House – Boulmer
Robert Sturdy Travel
Vasey (Printers) Ltd
Westland Helicopters



ANNEX F

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

  1. The initial success of this expedition was in part due to the support by sponsors, who without their support would have led to the withdrawal of most of the team. Our thanks go to those individuals and companies who have donated generous financial support towards this expedition. The interest shown towards our expedition has been very encouraging and despite the problems associated with the Gulf War and the Recession” we managed to raise sufficient funds to continue with the expedition plans.
  2. I would like to express my thanks to those who contributed in many ways towards the planning and execution, who in no small way helped to make this an enjoyable and successful expedition.

Major Chris Brightman
British Aerospace
British Alpine Club
Sarah Cartledge
Group Captain Peacock-Edwards
Dowty Group
Squadron Leader Bill Gault
Flight Lieutenant Mike Gibson
Jerry Gore
Guisborough Round Table
Flight Lieutenant D Hicks
Steve Hillen
AVM R J Honey
Mr & Mrs R Jones
Macallum/Glen Livet
Andy Moorhouse
F Parkinson
Propulsion Flight
Dr Huascar Pacheco
RAF Mountaineering Association
Mrs E Richardson
Robert Sturdy Travel
Squadron Leader Sainsbury
Robin Shackell
Alan Shave
Engineering Wing Typing Pool
Mike Taylor
Trenchard Memorial Award
Jimmy Varela
Mrs Vargas
Sergeant Pete Vaughan
Guy Vasey
Virgin Atlantic
Mr M Daly
Westland Helicopters Ltd
Shane Winser

HQ SW District
RAOC Warton, Preston

‘Hello’ Magazine
Station Commander – RAF Leeming
Cheltenham
Inspector of Land rescue (RAF)
RAF Valley
Cotswold Camping

RAF Leeming
British Alpine Club
Patron
Marple, Stockport
Macallum Distillery
Reprographics RAF Catterick
Building & Civil Engineering Blackpool
RAF Leeming
Presidente – Club Andino Boliviano

Johnson House, Boulmer
Bedale
RAF High Wycombe
British Embassy – La Paz
British Embassy – La Paz
Sue & Bev – RAF Leeming
Midland Bank, Ripon

Club Andino Boliviano Bolivian Consulate – London
RAF Leeming
Vasey (Printers) Ltd Leeming Bar
Crawley
Ambassador, British Embassy – La Paz
Yeovil
Royal Geographical Society


ANNEX G

USEFUL ADDRESSES

British Embassy Avenida Acre
2732-2754 (Casilla 694) LA PAZ, Bolivia

Bolivian Consulate
106 Eaton Square
London, SW1 9AD

Expedition Advisory Centre Royal Geographical Society
1 Kensington Gore
London, SW7 2AR

Club Andino Boliviano
Casilla No 1346
Calle Mexico 1638
LA PAZ, Bolivia

Stanfords (Maps)
12-14 Long Acre
London, WC2E 9LP

Instituto Geografico Militar (Maps) 1471 Calle AV Mariscal Santa Cruz LA PAZ, Bolivia

Robert Sturdy Travel
34 Market Place
Bedale
N. Yorkshire, DL8 1ED

Virgin Atlantic
Ashdown House
High Street
Crawley
RH10 1DQ

Lloyd Aero Boliviano (Airlines)
Suite 051
4th Floor
27 Cockspur Street
London SW1Y 5BN

British Mountaineering Council Crawford House, Precinct Centre, Booth Street East
MANCHESTER M13 9RZ

British Alpine Club
118 Eaton Square
LONDON SW1W 9AF


Tel: 351400/329401 Fax: 0105912 391063


Tel: 071-235 4255/424




Tel: 071-581-2057




Fax: 0105912 352279



Tel: 071-836-1321

(Visit in person)
1500-1900
Mon-Fri




Tel: 0677 424242/22189












Tel: 061 273 5835



Tel: 071 259 5591



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