Two Star Red – Glossary

abseil descent
(where it is impossible or inconvenient to climb down) by means of a doubled rope round belay or through a loop of cord attached to piton
arête
a narrow ridge
bealach
(Gaelic) a pass
belay
securing the party by means of a projection: bollard of rock, piton, etc. The projection itself
bivouac
voluntary or involuntary encampment without tents
bwlch
(Welsh) a pass
carabiner
metal snap-link for attaching rope to pitons, running belays, etc
carry
(noun) the act of carrying a stretcher
chimney
fissure wide enough to admit climber’s body
col
a pass
cornice
overhanging wave of wind-formed snow on a ridge
corrie, coire
normally a high bowl-shaped valley
crampon
metal frame with spikes to fit on boot for use on hard snow or ice.
To move wearing crampons
Creag Dhu
a select group of hard Scottish climbers
cwm
(Welsh) hanging valley
Difficile,
Trés Difficile, etc.:

grades used to assess the general standard of a route on the Continent
Difficult
British climbs are graded Easy, Moderate, Difficult, Very Difficult, Severe, Very Severe, Exceptionally Severe.
Difficult is not the same standard as the French Difficile but much easier
duvet
padded jacket, trousers, etc., filled with eiderdown
étriers
miniature rope ladders with three or four metal rungs used in artificial climbing
gabbro
very rough rock of Black Cuillin on Skye
glissade
controlled slide down snow using ice axe as brake
gully axe
a type of short axe with hammer head instead of adze, for use in confined spaces and on steep ice. No ferrule or spike
ghyll
gully
lead clean
climb without a top rope
lead through
lead alternately
lochan
small lake
lower
(noun) the act of lowering a stretcher
moraine
accumulation of stones and debris brought down by glacier
nails
nailed boots
névé
old hard snow or ice
north wall axe
similar to gully axe but with longer shaft and having ferrule and spike, normally used on alpine climbs
pendule
pendulum
pitch
section of climb between belays,
piton, peg
metal spike with ring or hole in the head which, used in conjunction with carabiner, can be used to safeguard the rope between climbers, or as a belay
Prusik
(knot, loop) a sliding knot
pup tents
two-man tents
Runner
running belay: intermediate belays on pitches where a sling and carabiner are slipped over a projection and the climbing rope run through the carabiner
run-out
the amount of rope used on a pitch solo alone, unroped
sling
short loop of rope or line. Webbing loop on axe
stance
standing or sitting space by belay
sweep search
line of men abreast spaced out at intervals, each leg of the operation being parallel and adjacent to the last
tigers
the best climbers
top rope
rope from above
tricouni
boot nail
two star red
distress signal. The pyrotechnic used to show the site of the accident
verglas
veneer of black ice on rock
vibrams
moulded rubber boot soles. The boots themselves
windslab
wind-blown snow which peels off in slabs when disturbed